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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:35 am    Post subject: REPAIR: Appliances Tips Reply with quote

Appliances Tips
Dishwasher leaking all over the place? Refrigerator making crazy noises? Sometimes the problem is small, and you can fix it yourself.
NOTE: If you want to find out how to get a warranty on your appliances, ask the experts at American Home Shield:
http://www.americanhomeshield.com

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:47 am    Post subject: Clothes Washers Reply with quote

Washer Safety Tip
Before making repairs, pull the plug and turn off the faucets. Note: Appliance models vary; see your owner's manual for information specific to your washer.

When your washer doesn't work...Check for:
• Proper power supply.
• Unplugged or defective cord.
• Blown fuse or circuit breaker.
• Kinked water supply or drain hose.

Remedies:
• Repair power supply.
• Plug in or replace cord.
• Replace fuses or turn circuit breaker back on.
• Straighten the kink. If you can't, replace the hose.

Washer doesn't fill...Check for:
• Blocked water inlet screens.
• Clogged filters
• A kink in one of the hoses
• Timer that is not set
• Defective timer or temperature selector.

Remedies:
• Clean or replace water inlet screens.
• Check the inlet hose filters and clean them.
• Straighten the water supply hoses.
• Turn the timer slightly or press the buttons firmly.
• Replace timer or temperature selector*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Oversudsing
Oversudsing causes leaks and blocks drains. To reduce the suds, pour 1/2 cup white vinegar mixed with some cold water into the washer. Next time, use less detergent (try low-suds type).

Water temperature not right?
Be sure the faucets are fully open, screens in the water inlet valve or hoses aren't clogged, and there's lot's of hot water.

Washer won't spin or begins to vibrate
The wash load may be too large or out of balance. Try removing some of the items or redistribute the load.

Washer doesn't agitate...Check for:
• Loose or broken drive belt.
• Defective agitator solenoid.

Remedies:
• Tighten or replace belt
• Replace agitator solenoid*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Washer doesn't spin...Check for:
• Loose or broken drive belt.
• Defective lid safety switch, timer, or spin solenoid.

Remedies:
• Tighten or replace belt.
• Replace switch, timer, or spin solenoid.*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Washer doesn't drain...Check for:
Jammed or defective drain pump.

Remedies:
• Clear jam.
• Replace pump*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Washer vibrates excessively...Check for:
• Machine or load in machine isn't level.
• Defective snubber.
• Loose basket.
• Worn basket support.

Remedies:
• Adjust leveling feet or load in machine.
• Repair or replace snubber.*
• Tighten basket hold-down nut.
• Replace support.*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Washer doesn't shut off...Check for:
• Disconnected air hose.
• Defective water inlet valve.

Remedies:
• Reconnect hose to water level switch.
• Replace water inlet valve.*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


Washer fills but motor doesn't start...Check for:
• If motor hums, jammed drain pump or defective motor.
• Tripped or defective overload protector.

Remedies:
• Unjam pump.
• Replace motor if defective.*
• Reduce wash load.
• Let protector reset and replace if defective.*
*Problem is best left to a professional.


The water doesn't stop running...Check for:
• Disconnected overflow switch
• Disconnected hose
• Defective overflow switch
• Defective timer
• Damaged mixing valve

Remedies:
• Replace the water hose.
• Check the switch and replace it.
• Replace the timer.
• Replace the valve.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The tub fills with water but the machine doesn't run...Check for:
• Tripped lid safety switch
• Too much laundry in the tub
• Defective motor
• Defective timer

Remedies:
• Make sure the lid is closed.
• Check the switch.
• Take some things out and wait 15 minutes for the motor to reset.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The motor runs but the machine doesn't agitate or spin...Check for:
• Loose or broken drive belt
• Broken gears or transmission

Remedies:
• Tighten the belt or replace it.
• Call a qualified contractor.

Washer leaks...Check for:
• Loose hose connection
• Defective hoses
• Damaged gaskets
• Defective mixing valve
• Damaged pump
• Defective overflow switch or sensor

Remedies:
• Check and tighten the connection.
• Replace the hose.
• Check the gaskets, then replace it if necessary.
• Check the valve for cracks, then replace if necessary.
• Check for defects and replace bad parts.
• Call a qualified contractor.

Washer won't drain...Check for:
• A kink in the drain hose
• The position of the drain hose is too high.
• Defective timer
• Stuck drain pump

Remedies:
• Straighten the hose.
• Make sure the hose is not emptying more than 3 feet above the floor.
• Replace the timer.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The water doesn't get hot enough...Check for:
• The water heater setting is too low.
• The water supply hoses are misconnected.
• Defective mixing valve
• Defective timer

Remedies:
• Reset the thermostat to 140 - 160 degrees F.
• Reverse the hose connection.
• Replace the defective valve.
• Replace the timer.
• Call a qualified contractor.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:56 am    Post subject: Clothes Dryers Reply with quote

Troubleshooting an Electric Clothes Dryer
Dryers are classified according to the kind of power that provides their heat-either electricity or gas. But even a gas dryer uses electricity for all its non-heating actions. When your dryer doesn't do its job, look first to the basics. Is it plugged in? Is the cord defective? Has the dryer's fuse blown or has the circuit breaker tripped? Clean the lint trap and use a vacuum or a piece of wire to remove any lint from the exhaust duct. If the load seems too wet to dry efficiently, put it through the washer's spin cycle again.

Safety Tip - Before doing any work on your dryer, pull the plug. Turn off the gas supply to a gas dryer, at ether the appliance shutoff or the main shutoff valve. Should you smell gas, get out of the house immediately.

Guide to Symbols
G - Gas heater only
E - Electric heater only


Note: Appliance models vary; see your owner's manual for information specific to your dryer.

Drum doesn't rotate, though dryer turns on...Check for:
• Defective start switch, door switch, or timer.
• Loose or broken drum belt.
• Loose or broken idler pulley or spring.
• Defective support roller, centrifugal switch, or motor.

Remedies:
• Replace start switch, door switch, or timer.*
• Tighten loose belt.
• Replace broken belt.*
• Replace idler pulley or spring.*
• Replace support roller, centrifugal switch or motor.*
*Problem is best left to a professional.

Dryer doesn't heat, though drum rotates...Check for:
• Defective temperature control or timer.
• Defective over heat protector.
• E - Power off.
• E - Defective heating element.
• G - Pilot light out.
• G - Defective electric pilot.
• G - Incorrect air-gas ratio.

Remedies:
• Replace temperature control or timer.*
• Replace overheat protector.*
• E - Check fuse or circuit breaker.
• E - Replace heating element.
• G - Relight or replace flame switch.*
• G - Replace pilot.*
• G - Adjust shutter on burner.
*Problem is best left to a professional.

Clothes don't dry...Check for:
• Clogged lint trap or exhaust duct.
• Worn door seal.
• G - Incorrect air-gas ratio.

Remedies:
• Clean lint trap or exhaust duct.
• Replace door seal.
• G - Adjust shutter on burner.

Dryer runs noisily...Check for:
• Worn drum belt.
• Defective idler pulley or support roller.
• Loose blower.
• Worn motor bearings.

Remedies:
• Replace drum belt.*
• Replace idler pulley or support roller.*
• Tighten setscrew holding blower to shaft.
• Replace bearings or motor.
*Problem is best left to a professional.

You can't turn the dryer on...Check for:
• Open door
• No power reaching the outlet.
• Loose motor wiring
• Damaged door switch
• Defective centrifugal switch
• Defective wiring between the outlet and the terminal block
• Defective timer
• Defective motor

Remedies:
• Shut the door again.
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
• Tighten the electrical connections.
• Check the switch and replace it if necessary.
• Check the timer and replace if necessary.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The motor runs but the drum doesn't turn...Check for:
• Blocked drum
• Broken drive belt
• Broken idler wheel assembly
• Work support wheel

Remedies:
• Open the unit and look for any obstruction around the drum.
• Replace the belt.
• Check the assembly and replace if necessary.
• Check the wheel and replace if necessary.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The drum turns but nothing gets dry...Check for:
• Clogged lint trap or exhaust vent
• Defective safety thermostat is defective
• Defective heating element
• Defective timer

Remedies:
• Unclog lint trap or exhaust vent.
• Replace safety thermostat.
• Replace heating element.
• Replace timer.
• Call a qualified contractor.

It takes too long to dry a load...Check for:
• Clogged lint trap or exhaust vent
• Overloaded dryer
• Clothes that are too wet
• Loose fan
• Damaged door gasket

Remedies:
• Clean the trap and vent.
• Reduce the load and try again.
• Check fan and tighten if necessary.
• Check the gasket and replace if necessary.
• Call a qualified contractor.

It doesn't stop drying at the end of a cycle...Check for:
• Defective timer is defective
• Defective dampness sensor

Remedies:
• Replace the timer.
• If your unit has this type of electronic dampness sensor, call a qualified contractor.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:04 pm    Post subject: Troubleshooting Garbage Disposals Reply with quote

The two types of garbage Disposals are:
• Batch Feed - Activated by turning a stopper.
• Continuous Feed - Activated by a wall switch.

Problems usually involve jams or clogs, or occasionally leaks

Safety Tip
If dismantling the Disposal or working on electrical connections, shut off power at the main disconnect. Never put your hand in the Disposal. Use pliers or tongs to remove an object. Never pour a chemical drain cleaner into a Disposal.

Troubleshooting a Garbage Disposal
• If your Disposal makes a loud whirring noise or stops, it has jammed. Turn it off and wait 5 minutes, then firmly press the reset button on the bottom of the motor housing. (Machines without buttons reset automatically).
• If the Disposal still doesn't work, see if it's designed to be unjammed from below. It may have a small crank or a socket for an Allen wrench to turn the flywheel. Or it may have a reversing switch
• Lacking these, angle a broom handle against an impeller blade and work the blade back and forth until the jam dislodges. Then press the reset button.
• To cure a clog, disassemble the trap and use a snake.
• Water dripping from the Disposal usually indicates one or more seals are worn and need to be replaced.
• Helpful Hint When professional help is required, take the Disposal to the repair service to avoid paying for a service call. To remove it, separate it from the drain elbow and loosen the mounting screws to release it from the support flange.
• For best service from your Disposal, run cold water during disposal and for a minute after.
• Never put glass, metal or rubber in the Disposal.
• Disposals vary, so consult your owner's manual.

You can't turn on the motor..Check for:
• No power.
• Defective on/off switch.
• Tripped overload protector switch.
• Defective motor.

Remedies:
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker, and if the disposal is plugged into a wall outlet, check the outlet.
• On continuous feed models, check the wall switch.
• On batch-feed models, check he stopper switch.
• If the flywheel is jammed, free it. Then, push the reset button.
• Call a qualified contractor.

Motor hums, but unit doesn't grind...Check for:
• Jammed flywheel.
• Frozen motor bearings

Remedies:
• Free the flywheel.
• Call a qualified contractor. You'll probably have to buy a new unit.

The disposal continuously blows fuses...Check for:
• Too many appliances plugged into the circuit.

Remedy:
• Install a 15-amp circuit just for the disposal.

You can't stop the disposal...Check for:
• Defective on/off switch.

Remedy:
• Call a qualified contractor.

The disposal drains slowly...Check for:
• Not enough water.
• Clogged drain line.
• Disposal isn't grinding finely enough.

Remedies:
• Run more cold water when using the disposal.
• Don't use harsh chemical agents.
• Flush with hot water to remove a grease clog, then remove the drainpipe and clear it.
• Replace a dull shredder ring or any broken flyweights.

The disposal is making an unusual amount of noise...Check for:
• Metallic object in the unit.
• Loose mounting screws are loose.
• Broken flyweight.
• The motor is defective.

Remedies:
• Inspect the unit and fish out the object with thongs or forceps.
• Tighten the mounting screws.
• Replace the broken flywheel.
• Call a qualified contractor.

There is a leak in the disposal...Check for:
• Loose sink connection.
• Loose drain connection.
• Damaged housing gasket.

Remedies:
• Tighten the flanges holding the gaskets or replace the gaskets.
• Tighten the drain flanges or replace the drain gasket.
• Replace the gasket.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:12 pm    Post subject: Troubleshooting Dishwashers Reply with quote

• A dishwasher has many parts that can become blocked, jammed or clogged.
• Very hot water -- 140°F to 160°F -- is basic to good service from a dishwasher.
• Some dishwashers are equipped with an air gap to prevent waste water from backing up into the washer. Because it collects bits of waste, the air gap must be cleaned regularly (remove the cap and cover and use a wire).
• A dishwasher without an air gap has a high loop in the drain hose. Make sure that it's not kinked, and clear any obstructions from it with a length of wire when necessary.
• Safety Tip Before making repairs, pull the plug from the receptacle. Turn off the hot water valve under the sink before working on the water inlet valve or disconnecting the hot water hose.

You can't get the dishwasher to run...Check for:
• Unlocked door.
• Timer or selector button in the wrong position.
• No power is reaching the unit.
• Defective door switch.
• Loose wires.
• Defective timer.

Remedies:
• Relock the door.
• Check the setting of both the timer and the selector button.
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
• Check the door switch for damage.
• Check all the terminals on both the timer and the motor.
• Replace the timer.

Dishes are still dirty at the end of the wash...Check for:
• Water not hot enough.
• Dishes not correctly prepared for washing.
• Dishes aren't stacked correctly.
• Detergent is old.
• Detergent dispenser doesn't open.
• Spray arms are blocked.
• No water in the tub.

Remedies:
• Check the temperature of the hot water from the tap - it should be between 140°F and 150°F.
• Check the hot water setting.
• Scrape and rinse all dishes before loading the dishwasher.
• Dishes can't touch and must face the direction of the spray to get completely clean.
• Start over with fresh dishwasher detergent.
• Check the detergent cup and remove hardened detergent or mineral deposits.
• Be sure the lid is not blocked and check the dispenser solenoid.
• Check and make sure nothing is blocking the arms.
See the next section for not enough water..

The dishwasher's tub doesn't fill with water...Check for:
• Defective water inlet valve or solenoid.
• Clogged water filter.
• Defective overflow switch.
• Defective timer.

Remedies:
• Check the valve.
• Check to see if your water inlet valve has a filter and clean it.
• Check the switch. If it freezes in the FULL position, the unit will not fill.
• Replace the timer.

You can't get the water to stop running...Check for:
• Stuck water inlet valve.
• Defective timer.
• Defective overflow switch.

Remedies:
• Check the valve and see if you can shut it.
• Replace the timer.
• If the switch is frozen on the EMPTY position, the water will continue to run.

The water isn't draining out of the unit...Check for:
• Clogged or leaking drain hose.
• Defective pump motor.
• Defective timer.

Remedies:
• Disconnect the drain hose and blow through it to be sure it is clear.
• Call a qualified contractor.
• Replace the timer.

The dishes aren't drying...Check for:
• Mineral deposits on the heating element.
• Loose heating element wire.
• Burnt out heating element.
• Defective timer.

Remedies:
• The deposits should come off with vinegar.
• Check all the electrical connections around the heating elements.
• Replace the heating element.
• Replace the timer.

Water is leaking out of the dishwasher...Check for:
• Damaged door seal.
• Defective overflow switch.
• Broken door hinges.
• Loose heating element nuts.
• Loose hose clamps.

Remedies:
• Replace the door seal.
• Check the switch for damages.
• Replace the hinges.
• Tighten the nuts that attach the element to the tub.
• To see if there's a loose hose connection, you may have to move the unit.

The dishwasher is unusually noisy...Check for:
• Spray arm hitting the dishes.
• Damaged water inlet valve (a knocking sound while the unit fills)
• Not enough water in the tub.

Remedies:
• Reload the unit, so dishes don't touch the spray arm.
• Replace the water inlet valve.
• Stop using other faucets while the dishwasher fills.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:29 pm    Post subject: Kitchen Ranges Reply with quote

A kitchen range has electric elements or gas burners that provide heat to the cooktop and oven. Most gas ranges also have some electric features, such as a clock and lights, and sometimes an electric pilot.

• If your electric range or the electrical parts of your gas range don't work, first check the fuse or circuit breaker.
• Be sure the power cord and terminal block on a freestanding range aren't defective. Replace them if necessary.

Unreliable Oven Temperature
Unreliable oven temperature is a common complaint. The thermostat that maintains oven temperature is part of the oven control. If the thermostat fails, have the entire control replaced. But if it's only out of calibration, you may be able to adjust it.

• To gauge the problem, place an accurate oven thermometer in the center of a 350 degree oven.
• After 20 minutes, check the reading.
• If it's more than 100 degrees too high or too low, replace the control.
• If the difference is less than 100 degrees, pull the oven control knob off and locate the calibration screw-either inside the hollow control shaft or on a movable disc on the back of the knob.
• Tighten or loosen the screw; keep testing until the temperature is correct.

Electric Ranges
The cooktop heating elements of most modern electric ranges simply plug into a receptacle, allowing for easy cleaning or replacement. The same is true of the baking and broiling elements.

• In some ovens, you'll need to unscrew the brackets from the oven wall and then unplug the element.
• You may need to pull gently forward and then remove the wires from the terminals.
• Finally, lift out the element.
• If an element isn't working, check for breaks or bubbles on the smooth surface of the element.
• Also check for corrosion on the terminals, as well as for broken connections and scorched wires or insulation near the element receptacle.
• Safety Tip: Turn off the power to the range or, if necessary, to the entire circuit before making any electrical checks or repairs.

Gas Ranges
Whether on the cooktop or in the oven, a gas burner that doesn't work may lead you to a pilot that has gone out. Pilots may be gas or electric (in the latter, a spark ignites the gas). Both types are easily relighted (see your owner's manual). A gas pilot that continually goes out calls for cleaning and adjusting and perhaps gas company help.

Keeping the Right Flame
The flame of a cooktop or oven burner should be a bright, steady blue. If it's not, you'll need to change the air-gas ratio by adjusting the burner's air shutter.

• To reach the shutter for a cooktop burner, lift off the cooktop.
• You can adjust an oven burner's shutter from the compartment under the oven.
• If the flame is jumpy, loosen the screw securing the shutter and gradually close it until the flame burns properly.
• If the flame is a mixture of blue, yellow, and white, increase the air supply by gradually opening the shutter.
• When the flame is properly adjusted, tighten the screw.
• CAUTION: If you smell gas and the pilots are lighted, get out of the house immediately and call the gas company from a neighbor's house.
• Be sure to turn off the power to a gas range if you'll be working on its electrical parts.

Troubleshooting Electric Ranges
The range is not working at all...Check for:
• No power reaching the range.

Remedies:
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
• If you don't find a problem, call an electrician.

One of the top elements doesn't heat...Check for:
• Defective element, wiring, terminal block or switch.

Remedy:
• Check each part for continuity and replace it if necessary.

A top element doesn't cook well...Check for:
• Wrong sized pan.
• Damaged element.
• Defective element, wiring, thermostat or selector switch.
• The time is not set properly.
• Defective timer.

Remedies:
• Use flat-bottomed pans that just cover the element.
• Replace the element.

You can't get the oven to heat...Check for:
• The oven is in its self-cleaning cycle.

Remedy:
• The extremely high power requirement during cleaning may prevent the stove from working.
• Check each part for continuity and replace any that are defective.
• Reread the instructions and reset it.
• Replace the timer.

The top rear element doesn't heat...Check for:
• The oven overheats.
• Clogged vent.

Remedy:
• Clean the vent.

The oven doesn't hold the temperature you set...Check for:
• Damaged door gasket.
• Thermostat isn't calibrated correctly.

Remedies:
• Replace the gasket.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The oven lamp doesn't work...Check for:
• Burnt out bulb.
• Defective switch or wiring to the bulb socket.

Remedies:
• Replace the burnt out bulb with the same type of oven bulb.
• Test the wiring and switch and replace defective parts.

The timer doesn't work...Check for:
• Incorrectly set timer.
• Blown fuse in timer.
• Loose connections.
• Damaged timer.

Remedies:
• Check the instructions and reset it.
• Check the 15-amp fuse in the timer circuit.
• Turn the power off and check the other connections for continuity.
• Replace the timer.

The oven door won't stay shut...Check for:
• Defective hinge or spring.

Remedy:
• Replace the defective pan.

Condensation forms inside the oven...Check for:
• Clogged vent.
• The door doesn't close properly.
• The oven doesn't preheat properly.

Remedies:
• Clean the vent. If there is an air filter, clean or replace it.
• Check the gasket and door hinge springs.
• Preheat the oven with the door ajar.

The accessory receptacle on the control doesn't work...Check for:
• Blown fuse.
• Defective wiring.

Remedies:
• Check the 15-amp fuse in the accessory circuit.
• Check the wiring and replace any damaged wires.

The oven stops self-cleaning...Check for:
• Unlocked door.
• Defective door switch, wiring or thermostat.

Remedies:
• Try starting over again.
• Call a qualified contractor.

Troubleshooting Gas Ranges
A surface burner doesn't light...Check for:
• The pilot light is out.
• The gas isn't on.

Remedies:
• Follow the instructions for relighting the pilot on your particular range.
• Call the gas company.

The pilot flame doesn't remain lighted...Check for:
• The pilot port is clogged.
• The range is in a drafty place.

Remedies:
• Use a small wire to clean the port.
• Try to prevent drafts near the range.

A burner is burning erratically...Check for:
• The burner is clogged.
• There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Remedies:
• Clean the burner ports.
• Call the gas company.

The oven stops lighting...Check for:
• The oven pilot light is out.
• Defective thermocouple.
• The gas isn't on.

Remedies:
• Follow the instructions for relighting the oven pilot on your particular range.
• Replace the thermocouple.
• Call the gas company.

The oven heats poorly...Check for:
• An incorrect mixture of gas and air.
• Defective safety thermocouple.

Remedies:
• Call the gas company.
• Replace the thermocouple.

Things bake unevenly in the oven...Check for:
• Damaged door gasket.
• Clogged exhaust vent.
• Defective thermostat.

Remedies:
• Replace the gasket.
• Clean the vent.
• Call the gas company.

The oven overheats...Check for:
• An incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Remedy:
• Call the gas company

The burners are producing soot...Check for:
• An incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Remedy:
• Call the gas company.

You smell gas...Check for:
• The pilot is out.
• The gas line is leaking.

Remedies:
• Ventilate the room and relight the pilot.
• Call the gas company.
• Ventilate the room, extinguish all flames and don't turn on any electric switches.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:35 pm    Post subject: Troubleshooting Trash Compactors Reply with quote

You can't turn off the compactor...Check for:
• No power reaching the outlet.
• Defective electrical cord.
• The safety lock is not on.
• Open drawer.
• Overloaded motor.
• Defective switch.
• Loose electrical connection.

Remedies:
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
• Test the cord and replace it if damaged.
• Turn on the safety lock.
• Remove anything that keeps it from closing.
• Remove the wall plug and allow 10 minutes for the motor to cool. Then, check the drive chain or drive belt and look for broken gears and worn ram screws.
• To find the switches on your unit, check the owner's manual. Then test each switch.
• Check every wire and connection.

Unit starts, but blows a fuse of trips the circuit breaker...Check for:
• Too many appliances on one circuit.
• Short circuit in cord or plug.
• Short circuit in switch.
• Short circuit in motor.

Remedies:
• Run the unit on its own circuit.
• Test the plug and cord for continuity.
• Test the switches for continuity.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The motor runs, but the trash isn't compacted...Check for:
• Loose or broken drive chain.
• Loose gears or pulleys.
• The ram is seized up.

Remedies:
• Check the chain for problems, then adjust or replace it.
• Check the gears and pulleys, then tighten or replace them if necessary.
• The ram screws need lubrication. If the screws are stripped, they must be replaced.

The compactor is unusually noisy...Check for:
• Loose drive chain.
• The unit needs to be lubricated.
• Loose parts.

Remedies:
• Tighten the chain.
• Lubricate the unit.
• Check and tighten every bolt and screw.

The unit smells unusual...Check for:
• The deodorant is empty.
• Clogged aerosol nozzle on the deodorant.

Remedies:
• Replace the deodorant.
• Clean the nozzle out with thin wire.

Trash spills out of the unit...Check for:
• Bag in wrong position.

Remedy:
• Check the position of the bag and the clips that hold it.
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couponqueen
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Joined: 14 Mar 2006
Posts: 9067
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:54 pm    Post subject: Refrigerators Reply with quote

Giving conscientious routine care, a refrigerator will usually perform its tasks for years with a minimum of problems. Refrigerators are categorized according to the way frost is removed from them.

• Standard Refrigerator - Defrosts when the power is turned off and the frost is permitted to melt slowly away on it's own or with the aid of pans of hot water placed in the freezer.

• Cycle-Defrost Model - A heater that is turned on when the temperature on the evaporator reaches a preset point, keeps the refrigerator compartment free of frost, but the freezer requires manual defrosting every few months.

• Frost-Free Refrigerator - Frost from both compartments is continually melted away by a heater that turns on for 20 -30 minutes, two or three times a day. Clearly, this type of refrigerator offers the ultimate in convenience, though it's somewhat more prone to problems and is considered less energy-efficient.

Keeping the Drain Pan Clean
In automatically defrosted models, water from the melting frost flows out a drain in the floor of the refrigerator and into a pan, where it evaporates. Food particles can be carried along, clogging the drain and causing odors.
Clean the drain regularly by following these steps:


• Remove the stopper.
• Use a pipe cleaner or similar device to push any accumulations through to the drain pan below.
• Force a solution made from soap, ammonia, and water through the drain.
• Empty the pan and wash it.

Refrigerator Door Gasket
The door gasket, if washed often with soapy water, will usually last as long as the refrigerator. Check to see if it is sealing well by closing a dollar bill in the door. If you feel a resistance when you pull it out, the gasket is holding. Repeat the test in several places. If your gasket does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Refrigerator Temperature Settings
Temperature settings for refrigerator and freezer compartments are given arbitrary numbers for example (1 through 9, warmest to coldest) by manufacturers, but generally 37 degrees F is ideal for the refrigerator compartment and 0 degrees F for the freezer. If you suspect a problem, test the temperatures with a refrigerator or outdoor thermometer.

Troubleshooting Refrigerators
The refrigerator has stopped running. No sound can be heard and the light is out...Check for:
• No power at the outlet.
• Damaged power cord.

Remedies:
• Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
• Check the outlet with a VOM or lamp.
• If refrigerator blows fuses, put it on its own circuit.
• Replace the cord.

The refrigerator has stopped running, the light is on and you hear occasional clicking...Check for:
• Dirty condenser coils.
• Defective condenser fan. (frost-free types)
• Incorrect voltage reaching the unit.
• Defective thermostat.
• Defective compressor.

Remedies:
• Clean the coils.
• Check the fan.
• Check the voltage with a VOM, then call the power company if it's not between 105 and 125 volts.
• Test the thermostat and replace if necessary.
• Call a qualified contractor.

The refrigerator constantly cycles on and off...Check for:
• Wrong voltage reaching the unit.
• Defective compressor.
• Leaking refrigerant.
• Dirty condenser coils.

Remedies:
• Run the unit its own circuit and check the voltage at the outlet.
• Call a qualified contractor.
• Call a qualified contractor.
• Clean the coils.

The refrigerator doesn't cool well or runs all the time...Check for:
• Thermostat on wrong setting.
• Dirty condenser coils.
• Damaged door gasket.
• Sagging door.
• Heavy frost accumulation.
• Door is open too much.
• Hot and humid weather.
• Inside light on.
• Wet insulation in the door and sides
• Room too warm.
• Damaged evaporator fan.
• Damaged condenser fan
• Defective defrost timer.
• The refrigerant has leaked out.

Remedies:
• Change the thermostat temperature.
• Clean the coils.
• Check the gaskets.
• Straighten the door.
• Defrost the unit more often.
• Open the door as little as possible.
• If the unit runs continuously, but cools well, there is no problem.
• Check the door switch.
• Open the unit on a dry day and let it dry out. Also, repair or replace cracked door jambs and panels.
• Move the refrigerator to a cooler place or start cooling the room.
• Check the fan for damage.
• Check the fan for damage.
• Check the timer for defects.
• Call a qualified contractor.

Frost forms rapidly or the unit does not defrost at all...Check for:
• Door open too much.
• Sagging door.
• Damaged door gasket
• Uncovered food.
• Clogged drains.
• Damaged defrost timer, heater, or thermostat.

Remedies:
• Open the door as little as possible.
• Straighten the door.
• Test the gasket and replace it.
• Cover or seal all foods, especially liquids.
• Open and clean all drains.
• Check the timer, heater and thermostat for defects.

The refrigerator makes an unusual noise...Check for:
• Unit is not sitting level.
• Rattling drain pan.
• Hard or broken compressor mounts
• Blocked fan blades.

Remedies:
• Adjust the position of the unit.
• Move the pan so it doesn't touch sides of the unit.
• Replace the mounts.
• Check the evaporator and compressor fans for obstructions.

The refrigerator smells unusual...Check for:
• Clogged drains.
• Dirty drain pan.

Remedies:
• Open the drains and flush them.
• Clean the pan and disinfect it.

Water is leaking underneath or inside the unit...Check for:
• Broken drain hose or drain pan.
• Clogged drains or full pan.

Remedies:
• Replace the broken parts.
• Open the drains or empty the drain pan.
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